Can Paul Andrew Fix Ferragamo’s Fashion Problem
“Coherence” being the operative word right here, and something that was notably lacking within the brand’s most current show, which featured footwear by Mr. Andrew and clothes by Mr. Rigoni, and was typically perceived as making no sense.
What does make sense is that Mr. Andrew would come out on prime, given the number of editors within the viewers carrying his newest Ferragamo shoes (you could possibly tell by the gold flower-shaped heel), and the fact that Salvatore Ferragamo himself, a shoemaker, constructed his brand on footwear. Additionally the fact that in the primary six months of 2017, apparel — each men’s and women’s — was responsible for less than 5.Eight p.c of group revenues, whereas footwear was answerable for 43.6 percent.
Still, the numbers point out that Ferragamo has not, at the least for the reason that turn of the millennium, had any real id in clothing. Beyond a sure facility with leather-based, there appeared to be very little ambition to outline a point of view on women’s wear, or on how Ferragamo could mirror the exigencies of women’s lives. Mr. Andrew’s job will probably be to inject an actual signature idea (or three, or five) into the gathering.
Whether or not he can do with skirts what he did with sneakers, nonetheless, is now the query.
There is precedent: Though Mr. Andrew is the first designer to return specifically from the footwear sector in recent years, quite a few recent creative administrators for main brands have come from accessories: Alessandro Michele at Gucci, Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior, Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino, and Stuart Vevers at Coach.
Even more pointedly, again in 2004, Kering — then PPR, ferragamo zip heels proprietor of Gucci Group — named three designers to take over at Gucci after Tom Ford left: Frida Giannini for accessories, John Ray for men’s wear and Alessandra Facchinetti for women’s wear. Within two years Ms. Giannini was the only one left (she was fired in 2014). Which suggests that, though Guillaume Meilland stays the design director for men’s wear at Ferragamo, one other change could possibly be within the offing. Those that don’t be taught from historical past, and many others.
It’s price noting that Mr. Andrew now has a special title from Mr. Meilland, whereas previously they were separate but equal. It might sound picayune however, in large organizations, such things matter.
Neither Ferragamo nor Mr. Andrew were available for further remark. Mr. Andrew’s first full Ferragamo women’s collection will be for fall 2018, debuting in February in Milan. It will be, as they are saying, “a total look.” Then we’ll see.
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