Can Paul Andrew Repair Ferragamo’s Vogue Downside
“Coherence” being the operative word right here, and something that was notably missing within the brand’s most latest present, which featured footwear by Mr. Andrew and clothes by Mr. Rigoni, and was usually perceived as making no sense.
What does make sense is that Mr. Andrew would come out on top, given the variety of editors in the viewers sporting his latest Ferragamo sneakers (you could inform by the gold flower-shaped heel), and the fact that Salvatore Ferragamo himself, a shoemaker, built his model on footwear. Also the truth that in the primary six months of 2017, apparel — each men’s and women’s — was accountable for under 5.8 percent of group revenues, while footwear was responsible for forty three.6 percent.
Nonetheless, the numbers point out that Ferragamo has not, at least for the reason that flip of the millennium, had any actual identification in clothing. Past a certain facility with leather-based, there gave the impression to be very little ambition to define a perspective on women’s wear, or on how Ferragamo may mirror the exigencies of women’s lives. Mr. Andrew’s job can be to inject an actual signature concept (or three, or five) into the collection.
Whether he can do with skirts what he did with shoes, however, is now the question.
There may be precedent: Although Mr. Andrew is the primary designer to come particularly from the footwear sector in recent times, a number of recent artistic directors for major manufacturers have come from equipment: Alessandro Michele at Gucci, Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior, Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino, and Stuart Vevers at Coach.
Much more pointedly, back in 2004, Kering — then PPR, owner of Gucci Group — named three designers to take over at Gucci after Tom Ford left: Frida Giannini for equipment, John Ray for men’s wear and Alessandra Facchinetti for women’s put on. Within two years Ms. Giannini was the just one left (she was fired in 2014). Which means that, though Guillaume Meilland remains the design director for men’s put on at Ferragamo, one other change may very well be in the offing. Those that don’t learn from history, etc.
It’s worth noting that Mr. Andrew now has a distinct title from Mr. Meilland, whereas previously they have been separate but equal. It could sound picayune but, in vara shoes ferragamo white and black huge organizations, such things matter.
Neither Ferragamo nor Mr. Andrew have been out there for additional comment. Mr. Andrew’s first full Ferragamo women’s collection will probably be for fall 2018, debuting in February in Milan. Will probably be, as they are saying, “a total look.” Then we’ll see.
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